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Honeysuckle Extract :: The New Paraben Debate

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From our friends at Personal Care Truth or Scare:
 

Honeysuckle Extract :: The New Paraben Debate

The Organic Consumer Association’s article More on Parabens: Greenwashing With Honeysuckle Extract has caught the attention of editors and I am getting more and more questions regarding Japanese Honeysuckle Extract.

Plantservation is being marketed as a liquid preservative isolated from the herb Japanese Honeysuckle.  It is a debated ingredient by cosmetic formulators and chemists.  It does not appear on the proven list of preservatives by either the EU or the FDA.  It claims to have a broad spectrum antimicrobial activity, however, reports in the documentation only shows effective bactericidal activity.  My thorough search for preservation test results came up empty.  Any cosmetic product that contains water or even traces of water requires broad spectrum preservation.

The Japanese Honeysuckle Extract is said to contain para-hydroxy benzoic acid, which is a naturally occurring paraben.  Para-hydroxy benzoic acid is a phytochemical that is readily available throughout nature in plants, animals and insects.  Carrots, olive oil and a whole host of other natural sources contain the same phytochemical.  If carrots, olive oil or honeysuckle is mixed with water preservation is required, showing the the para-hydroxy benzoic acid occurring in nature is not at high enough concentrations to act as a broad spectrum preservative as claimed by Plantservation.  Since the phytochemical para-hydroxy benzoic acid found in plants is not a broad spectrum preservative alone it is not a far stretch of the imagination to conclude that the Japanese Honeysuckle Extract has altered, boosted or adulterated in the laboratory.

Even the claim that Japanese Honeysuckle Extract contains naturally occuring para-hydroxy benzoic acid is up for debate.  When I spoke with an outside testing lab regarding this product they doubted that claim and suspected naturally phenols instead.

David Steinberg, president of the cosmetic consulting firm Steinberg & Associates, adjunct professor at Farleigh Dickinson University, an instructor for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the best preservative expert I know on the market wrote an article for Personal Care Truth  on Honeysuckle Plant Extract that goes into more depth on the topic.

In terms of how green this product is there is evidence that Japanese honeysuckle contains 5 possible allelochemicals that cause interference with forest regeneration in the United States.  It appears to be one of the ingredients that sounds good on the label but in reality has flaws and lacks scientific documentation to prove it to be the next great ingredient on the market.

I have chosen not use Japanese Honeysuckle Extract as a preservative method because I cannot get full disclosure of ingredients, it does not have a proven track record and it does not have a history of testing for proven safety.  I simply am not certain that Japanese Honeysuckle Extract is not another Grapefruit Seed Extract trap.  It sounds natural, but is it really?

 

Filed under  //   ingredients   preservatives  

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Is your skin care really preservative free? How some companies avoid telling you the truth:

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Stayed up late last night doing more research on companies that are claiming to sell 'preservative-free' skin care... I want to know their secrets!

The line we are coming out with very soon is preserved with rooibos extract and everything has a distinctive tea scent. So I wanted to see if there was another way to do this (on a small scale of course) without using rooibos. Sadly I found lots of ways consumers are tricked, and manufacturers who think they are doing the right thing :(

Here's what one lab says about ways these companies claim to be preservative free:

One: There is a preservative system on the market with the INCI name of “Fragrance”, which does not disclose the actual ingredients and hides the preservative in the ingredient itself which acts like a broad spectrum preservative and is used in some of the biggest "natural" lines on the market.

Two: There are many products on the market that failed USP and CTFA Challenge Testing and grew yeast, mold, bacteria and fungus quickly. And when asked why they are still making the efficacy claims they are, the manufacturers simply state that "They passed OUR testing requirements."

Three: They do not fully disclose their ingredient list. This is common of all size companies that mislead their customers, thinking they are protecting their formulas. Their products do not fail micro tests, showing the amazing abilities of broad spectrum preservation yet, they do not have any ingredient listed that has any preservative properties at all. We find that odd at best.

Four: They might be using ingredients that do not require preservatives. For instance a product that does not contain water might not require preservatives, only an antioxidants such as Vitamin E.

Five: They could be using extracts in one or two different methods. Tinctures used at the right percentage create an effective preservative option. But be careful as many extracts are made in a propylene or butyl glycol base and are themselves preserved with parabens, triclorisan or urea but not disclosed as the manufacturer is only required to list it as an extract since they are considered "processing aides". These used at high enough levels without fully disclosing the other ingredients can create an effective preservative system. But be careful you don't give up one chemical for another

That last one upset me after all of my years in the herbal field

I also read more about the debate surrounding Japanese HoneySuckle as a preservative but some people believe that it is just another paraben: http://www.organicconsumers.org/articles/article_17679.cfm

Now I'm really confused!

So the hunt continues... Because I still don't want to send people home with bacteria or fungus laden products, gosh dang it!

 

COMMENTS FROM FACEBOOK

Marie-Chantal G
what about Potassium Sorbate?

Nicole Pilich
benzoin?

Shera Parsons
It's wonderful that you're so concerned. I'm sure we all appreciate it!

Candice D'Mello
I've recommended your store to family and friends- I love conscientious businesses! Thank you so much!

Juliets Room
Potassium Sorbate works, but isn't broad spectrum, it leaves too many baddies alive... benzoin resin is fraught with problems these days and the FDA has restrictions on its use topically :(

Juliets Room
thanks everyone - I"ll keep trying to be as transparent as possible. I just don't want people to be afraid of everything, like I've said in the past I believe fear is more unhealthy than many of the ingredients we encounter. There is sooo much fear in the world as it is. "Keep Calm and Carry on" :)

Lisa Haswell
Is melaleuca an option? I know at higher concentrations it can cause some irritation but it has great antibacterial properties.

Juliets Room
it works (we do use it in some things) but it would have to be used in really high concentrations - 5% or more - to be really effective.

Nicole Pilich
I think it is very difficult to achieve a perfectly "Clean" product, but you are working very hard to get to it. I feel good about using and recommending your product, it is very obvious that you care deeply about this.

Filed under  //   ingredients   preservatives  

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Doing Our Best

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Someone on a review site called me a "wolf in sheep's clothing" because I use the preservative Phenoxyethanol and I have to admit it really stung. Here's how I responded:

Hi folks - I totally appreciate your concerns, but I wish you would take a closer look at the studies and information before you imply that I'm a bad person :(

I'd love to make all of my products completely preservative free, and that's the ultimate goal. but at the size I'm at (one person company with no R&D department) I have to use tiny amounts of something that will allow me to be confidant that the products people are using doesn't contain harmful bacteria and fungus - some of which can be extremely harmful:

http://www.cosmeticsdesign .com/Formulation-Science/B acteria-in-cosmetics-can-b e-fatal-for-critically-ill -patients
"An outbreak of severe bacterial infections caused by Burkholderia cepacia (B. cepacia) in the intensive care unit of a Spanish hospital in 2006, led to the discovery of a contaminated body milk as the reservoir."

What the Cosmetics Database indicates (and by the way, some of the more fanatically natural companies out there think this database is so flawed they refuse to participate and have even involved their lawyers) is that this is an ingredient that should be used in very very small amounts. It hasn't been banned anywhere - it simply has restrictions on percentages, which we follow very closely.

Misinformation on Skin Deep http://www.sukiscoop.com/p ost/46

The Problem with EWG's Skin Deep (Safe Cosmetics Database) http://www.scienceforsale. com/2008/08/problem-with-e wgs-skin-deep-safe.html

Right now many companies are frustrated that incorrect info is on there about Cocamidopropyl Betaine, which we use in our organic bath gels:

The Real Truth About Cocamidopropyl Betaine http://essentialu.typepad. com/my_weblog/chemically-s peaking/

If you knew me you'd know that I want nothing more than to be perfect. If its not preservatives, its packaging, shipping, or water consumption, or fair trade, and the list goes on. No matter how good I try to be, there will always be someone who thinks I'm not trying hard enough. But I'll keep trying ;)


http://www.sustainlane.com /comments/juliets-room-org anic-skin-body-care/9589

COMMENTS FROM FACEBOOK

Eileen Roberts
You are doing fabulously Stacelynn. You can't please everyone all the time.

Juliets Room
Thanks Eileen. I'm going to launch the pheno-free line by spring, can't wait to offer the option! Its a little more expensive and has a shorter shelf-life, but it's a start...

Alison Watts
Oh my. Please ignore those nasty people! There is so misinformation out there about different products, it's not even funny. Paula Begoun has been writing about this kind of thing for years. I think you are doing the right thing by looking at the bona fide research and science. Nobody wants a fungus-bacteria cocktail cream!

Patricia Statham
Dont let that person bother you, I have had the same thing happen to me . I do hemp products and i had one person wanting to phone the police cause they didnt understand what it was and they thhought I was usinng marajuana. Just let it roll off your back and keep up the great work

Eileen Roberts
People also need to use the products and not keep them for forever... I mean really... what ARE they saving it for???

Juliets Room
LOL - I remember when they wanted to arrest Anita Roddick from the Body Shop for the same thing - you're in good company :)

Patricia Statham
and one more thing every natural product isnt a hundred percent natural, you have to have a preseritive in it for it to last more then one day. If they actually knew what they were putting on their body with conventional products. they would die. and come running to us people who want to take care of the skin as natural as possible

Natashia Ann
Still the best product my face has had the pleasure of feeling!

Steffner Snobinson
You are doing your best, and I find it perfect! I love Juliet's Room's products and with your personal touch, I know that you would not put anything in your products that would be knowingly damaging. And just to let you know that i love the name Juliet's Room, keep it!

Lynn Gosselin
I agree with everyone else. If you had products that were 100% organic or certified organic then that's another story, but you actually list the percentage of organics in each product so I say, forget them and keep doing what you do...

Juliets Room
I just learned that the same database says that Olive Oil is linked to cancer and is considered a skin irritant. Oy! http://www.cosmeticsdataba se.com/ingredient/704252/O LEA_EUROPAEA_%28OLIVE%29_O IL/

Erin Farr-Enns
My oh so mature resposne to them is "Bite me" lol I wish there could be products that had a 100% guarentee that there was nothing that could hurt me or the environment in it. In the meantime I read labels and pick the best option. I love the things I have purchased from Juliet's Room :) Don't let them bring you down.
Louise Peters
Phenoxyethanol has a rating of 8 as do most parabens. words ending in or have in them: methyl, propyl, ethyl, butyl are parabens!!! please us the EWG Skin Deep database as intended by referring to the hazard ratings. Olive Oil gets a rating of 0-1 the highest being a 9.

Juliets Room
also my point wasn't that olive oil is dangerous, just that when someone opens the screen to the word Cancer with a check mark beside it they are likely to be alarmed. Organic lecithin and Organic rice bran oil get a 4 and a 3 respectively. My point is that most people don't know how to use it properly and the group that put it together doesn't necessarily know how to interpret studies. I'm not a fan of fear-mongering, that's all.

Adele Evans
okay, hmmmm, i'm interested, I have had cancer and I search for as natural a product as I can find, are there any products out there without this substance??
Juliets Room
Hi Adele, sorry to hear you've been through that! In the grand scheme of things you are more likely to be exposed to cancer-causing agents while walking through a department store (off-gassing from plastics, carpets, paint) or standing on a street corner (car exhaust, guy smoking next to you, paving, etc). But I understand that it gives people a ... See Morebetter sense of control over their health by choosing something (like skin care) to be really diligent about. After 15 years in the natural health field, I can honestly say that I am not worried about the ingredients I use, and that anything injected into a rat in large quantities is likely to cause cell mutations. That said I know that Suki (US), Lavera (Europe) and Dr Hauschka (Europe) are companies that have figured out alternative preservatives. They are pretty pricey but come highly recommended...

Juliets Room
I hope that no one thinks that I'm not concerned about cancer - I lost my mom to it when I was 25. Perhaps I'm of the mind that the stress we cause ourselves by being scared of the world around us causes much harm too. That fear isn't good for us. Diligence and education is however, which is why I try to be as honest as I can about what I offer. I ... See Morehope everyone knows that while my goals are to offer products as pure as possible its not always because I believe there is anything inherently dangerous about them now, but I know that the closer I get to 100% pure, the more I can alleviate the fears of people who have had cancer (whether I believe these ingredients contribute or not).

Juliets Room
I've gotten a couple of emails about the comment that it gets an 8 out of 9. I just want to reiterate that it has a rating of 4. Mostly because there are restrictions on how much cosmetics companies can put in their products - put too much = skin irritation. Not cancer. They put some of it in a petri dish with non-mammlian cells and saw changes. That doesn't mean there is any effect at all on humans, used topically.

Juliets Room
Update: Health Canada considers it 'food safe' which means safe for ingestion.

Adele Evans
I must admit all of this is overwhelming and trying to sift thru the mountains of information is near impossible, all we can do is trust the people who are making"natural" products care as much as we do about using skin care that is hopefully less toxic and I believe Stacelynn is on the same quest as all of us, and will continue to make her products better and better as time goes on. Remember "when we know better, we do better"

Juliets Room
Adele - that meant a lot to me. Please know that I will continue to do my best and watch the studies carefully. It can be overwhelming sifting through it all.

Filed under  //   Skin Deep Database   ingredients   preservatives  

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